Worried You Don't Have the Skills to Build a Boat?

Being a boat designer and supplier of plans for home built boats; I frequently get asked how hard is it really, to build a boat. People wonder if they have the skills to really get it done in a reasonable amount of time. Well, there are boat plans out there for all skill levels. Some are so complex you need to be an experienced shipwright, and some are so simple, you can build one if you can follow simple directions but have never built anything in your life.

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I get all sorts of questions about lofting a boat, full sized plans, and a host of other questions that more appropriate 50 years ago than today. There has been so much misinformation and confusing terminology, I thought it appropriate to try to explain in detail, the skill set necessary to successfully build a modern boat design at home.

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First of all, look at the lines of the boat you're considering building. If it has a rounded bottom, or complex curves, it will not be an easy boat to build. If its lines are mostly flat curves designed around plywood, it'll go together quickly.

Next ask the designer if the hull comes pre lofted - that is to say the final shape of the framing elements has been pre-determined. Back in the days of drafting tables and architect's scales, you could not determine the final dimensions of a boat hull because of inaccuracies in the drafting. You had to redraw the boat full size, and use long thin battens of wood as a spline to determine the hull shape full sized. From that full sized drawing you could then determine the dimensions of the framing elements you need to build.

These days with Computer Aided Design (CAD) inaccuracies in the drawing are no longer an issue. With a boat designed in CAD, the final dimensions of each frame can be determined well within the accepted 1/8" accuracy. All you need to do then is build the frames in accordance with the drawings and all will be fair when the hull goes together.

OK, lets look at the skill set you'll need to build a modern, pre-lofted, framed boat designed around plywood planking. First you need to be able to measure accurately. If you can read a tape measure down to within 1/8" and use it to make a pencil mark, you have the all the skills necessary. That's not a difficult skill to acquire.

Next you need to be able to cut a straight line using a handsaw. I like a back saw for this kind of work and have made a simple bench hook to hold the frame in-place while I make the cut. You could make this kind of cut with a circular saw, table saw, radial arm saw, or power miter saw as well. Again, this is not a difficult skill to acquire. If you've never used one of these saws, about a half hour practice on some scrap lumber will yield you ample skill to be able to build a boat.

Next, you need to be able to set up and use a hand plane, drawknife, power plane or disk sander to be able to fair the framing smooth so that the planking has a flat surface to be glued to. This is an extremely intuitive activity, not really requiring skill, only some patience.

You also need to be able to drill holes in wood, and operate a cordless power screwdriver. These also, are very simplistic activities with power tools and do not require any exceptional levels of skill. Learning what size pilot holes are required for different screw sizes can be sidestepped by simply buying special screw pilot bits that create the ideal pilot hole for each screw size.

Finally, you need to be able to properly mix epoxy. Again, there is no skill required, just an ability to follow directions closely. Epoxies must be mixed in the proper proportions to cure correctly with full strength. They also must be mixed thoroughly, so follow the manufacturer's directions exactly, and you can add this skill set to your boat-building list of skills.

That's about it. I know many of you are reading this in disbelief, but this list is truly all you really need to know how to do to successfully build a boat at home. The vast majority of the people who build my boat designs have never built a boat before, most had never even seen a boat built before, and only have a passing knowledge of using hand tools.

If you elect to build a wineglass transom, round bottom hull that must be lofted and carefully fitted with carvel planks, then oakum caulked, you're on your own, but if you select a pre-lofted flat or vee-bottom plywood covered hull, these skills are all that's needed to do the job. Don't get the idea that these pre-lofted boats are clunky or ugly looking either - that can have sweeping, graceful lines that you would be proud to show off once complete.

Worried You Don't Have the Skills to Build a Boat?
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Special Price!!! DEWALT DW368 Heavy Duty 7-1/4-Inch Lightweight Circular Saw

DEWALT DW368 Heavy Duty 7-1/4-Inch Lightweight Circular Saw
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DEWALT DW368 Heavy Duty 7-1/4-Inch Lightweight Circular Saw

>> Click here to update Cheapest prices for DEWALT DW368 Heavy Duty 7-1/4-Inch Lightweight Circular Saw <<

DEWALT DW368 Heavy Duty 7-1/4-Inch Lightweight Circular Saw Feature

  • 15 Amp 2,200 MWO motor
  • 56-degree beveling capacity with stops at 45 and 22.5 degrees for aggressive bevel cuts
  • Clear line of sight aids in blade visibility from any angle
  • Weighs 9-1/2 pounds
  • Included with saw: carbide-tipped blade and blade wrench


DEWALT DW368 Heavy Duty 7-1/4-Inch Lightweight Circular Saw Overview

Weighing in at just 9-1/2 pounds, the DeWalt DW368 heavy-duty 7-1/4-inch lightweight circular saw is designed to reduce user fatigue and increase productivity. With a 15-smp 2,200-MWO motor, this saw is powerful enough for tough, professional grade applications. Other features include a 56-degree beveling capacity with stops at 45 and 22.5 degrees for aggressive bevel cuts while allowing user to locate common angles quickly, and a magnesium shoe designed for increased durability. A clear line of sight aids in blade visibility from any angle, and a lower guard design improves performance when making bevel cuts and cutting shims. This saw comes with a carbide-tipped blade and a blade wrench.



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Tools and Techniques for Building a Chicken Coop

I have been asked about different sections when building a chicken coop. In this article I will cover some basic techniques, along with one or two advanced techniques, for your chicken coop building projects. First I want to cover some basic needs you will have to address before you start your project.

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-Tools-

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Here is a basic general tool list you will be using when building a chicken coop. Some of the tools will or will not be needed depending on the type of coop you decide on constructing.

1. Wheelbarrow
2. Round shovel
3. Square shovel
4. Framing square
5. Tape measure
6. Wood stakes
7. Dry line
8. Line level
9. 6ft. bubble level or 4ft. bubble level
10. 2 saw horses
11. 6ft. step ladder
12. Circular saw
13. Hand saw
14. Copping saw
15. Drill
16. Philip bit
17. Standard bit
18. Framing hammer
19. Finish hammer
20. ½" wood chisel
21. 1" wood chisel
22. Staple gun

-Plans-

Building a chicken coop can be a very simple project or a little more involved than you are comfortable with. Whatever your skills are as a builder you want to have a plan to follow. The advantages of having a plan to work from are saving time, having exact measurements, knowing the complexity of the project, the tools needed, cost of materials needed, and knowing the total cost. These are very helpful to know when you're building. For your chicken ranch, knowing all this beforehand is important to you because it gives you the future projected cost of your coop. Also you can project how much money you can potentially make off of the eggs and chickens. Ultimately, the plans you choose will affect your location of the coop.

-Location-

The decision of a location of your coop is important when you are building a chicken coop for a small designed plan or a large style coop. The location for a small coop will not be as critical because you can build so that it is designed for mobility and can be moved easily. The basic rules of ventilation and cleanliness will affect your choice of location to make the feeding and cleaning of your coop as easy as possible. Make sure a water source is close enough in your choice of location to use in your cleaning and bathing of your chickens.

The same basic principles of ventilation and cleanliness still apply when building a chicken coop of a larger scale. The location will be more of a factor because it will not have the luxury of mobility it will be built in one location and be a permanent fixture. The location should be far enough from your living quarters to keep the odor to a minimum and close enough so you can have access to the coop for your daily chores of gathering eggs, watering, feeding and cleaning.

Tools and Techniques for Building a Chicken Coop
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Special Price!!! Skil HD5860 22 Amp 8-1/4-Inch 60-Degree Worm Drive Saw

Skil HD5860 22 Amp 8-1/4-Inch 60-Degree Worm Drive Saw
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Skil HD5860 22 Amp 8-1/4-Inch 60-Degree Worm Drive Saw

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Skil HD5860 22 Amp 8-1/4-Inch 60-Degree Worm Drive Saw Feature

  • Exclusive 60-Degree bevel feature with 8-1/4-Inch blade is ideal for angled cuts
  • High torque 13-Amp motor - die-cast aluminum motor and gear housings for durability
  • Oil indicator level and relief bellows for long life
  • Precision-machined, durable worm drive gears for longer tool life
  • Heavy gauge cord


Skil HD5860 22 Amp 8-1/4-Inch 60-Degree Worm Drive Saw Overview

Skil HD5860 8-1/4" Worm Drive SawFounded in 1924 as the Michel Electric Handsaw Company and renamed Skilsaw, Inc. in 1926, SKIL has become one of the most recognized and powerful brands in the power tool industry. From circular saws and jigsaws to sanders and drills, SKIL power tools are engineered to deliver the high-performance and durability that today's growing population of Do-It-Yourselfers demand. Every product of the growing line of SKIL tools is the result of extensive end-user research, consumer input, computer assisted design and rigorous testing, both in our laboratories and in the field. SKIL Power Tools are products of the Robert Bosch Tool Corporation.Skil HD5860 8-1/4" Worm Drive Saw Features:; Exclusive 60; bevel feature with 8 1/4" blade; High Torque 13 Amp Motor; Oil indicator level and relief bellows for long life; Precision-machined, durable worm drive gears; Die-cast aluminum motor and gear housings; 22-amp switch and heavy gauge cordSkil HD5860 8-1/4" Worm Drive Saw Specifications:; Depth of Cut at 60 Deg.: 1 1/2"; Voltage: 120; Rating: 120V; Amperage: 13.0; Weight (lbs.): 18.8; Depth of Cut at 45 Deg.: 2 1/4"; Depth of Cut at 90 Deg.: 2 7/8"; No Load RPM: 4,300; Cord Length (ft.): 8; Blade Diameter: 8 1/4"; Item Description: 8 1/4" Worm Drive Skilsaw;; Arbor Size: Diamond; Model Number: HD5860; Certifications: UL, CSA; Assembled In: USA; TOOL INCLUDES: - 40 Tooth Combination Blade- Blade Wrench

Skil HD5860 22 Amp 8-1/4-Inch 60-Degree Worm Drive Saw Specifications

If you have ever tried to cut a sheet of plywood by yourself, you'll understand how easily a circular saw can bind in the cut (curf) or kick back when the saw is first turned on. Well, not with a wormdrive saw like the HD5860. When you turn this baby on the torque from the motor actually twists the saw towards the material and with the power of a 13-amp motor, the wormdrive's cuts are fast, smooth and easy. Another important aspect of the wormdrive is that the blade is located on the left side of the tool, unlike sidewinder saws which are on the right side. This provides for an easily viewable cutting area without the need to extend your body over the saw housing or twist your arms and shoulders in order to watch the path of the blade.

A dual front sight helps to guide the saw along a marked line when cutting at 90, 45 or 60 degree angles. That's right, you can now cut stock up to 2 inches deep when set at a 60-degree angle, an exclusive feature of the HD5860. The durable cast aluminum motor and gear housing and an easily accessed oil refill port all make for a long-lasting and durable tool, something you've come to expect from Skil. --C. Dwight Barnett

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Skylights - A Homemade Shallow Box-Like Acrylic Condensation Cover for Dome Installations

Acrylic or polycarbonate dome skylights come is several sizes today. The traditional ones, however, are square to rectangular in shape, and run about 5" in height. Their width and length can be anywhere from 12" to 36", and are 1/8" thick.

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These domes can be mounted onto wooden curbs (2x2" to 2x6"), around which the roof shingles are caulked or thin-metal flashed to prevent any rain leakage around them. These domes can also be surface mounted directly onto the tar paper and wooden sheeting directly beneath the shingles.

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In the latter case, the dome's surrounding shingles themselves are directly laid over its flat outside flanges similar to the way the shingles are commonly laid over the flat metal of roof vents, furnace stacks, sewer vents and so forth. This installation minimizes the dome's height.

Problem. Either way, or no matter how the domes are mounted, they can and will produce unwanted condensation and similar leaks even if they have an inner plastic shield within them. These domes are also vulnerable to being cracked from large hail, fallen tree branches, earthquakes, or careless roofers. When these events happen, the skylights will leak rain water as well in addition to forming moisture.

Solution. Build and install a shallow-box-like 5-1/2"-high hard transparent cover over the dome on the roof. This cover will act like a storm window does by taking the brunt of temperature change and the formation of most condensation. For this article, a 20" square dome (which includes a 1" flange on each side of the 18"-square dome itself), 5" high, and surface mounted directly to the roof sheeting will be used as the example to be covered with the box-like storm cover. Similar covers can be built proportionally for other dome sizes.

Materials and tools (total cost for parts: -90, depending on the availability of the acrylic sheet).

One 2x6x96" pressure-treated board () One 22x22" sheet of heavy 0.22" thick acrylic plexiglass (-60, depending on the cut sizes available at the outlet). If the piece must be cut from a larger sheet, leave the protective films unpeeled on both sides of the sheet until the sawing is done. Use a sharp fine-tooth saw blade. Otherwise, let the outlet cut it to size for you. Twelve #12x3" Philips screws 20 to 30 - #8x1" Philips drywall screws (wide head) One small tube clear silicone caulk ($4) Two tubes silicone window/door caulk similar in color to the roof shingles () Four perpendicularly flat 2-1/2" L-shaped brackets () Eight #10x1" wood screws (for attaching the L-brackets to the cover frame) Eight #10x1-1/2 to 2" wood screws (for attaching the frame's L-brackets to the roof through the shingles) One quart oil-base water-proof paint similar in color to the roof shingles ($4) Tools: electric circular saw, electric drill, bits, Philips screwdriver, caulking gun, putty knife, rat-tail file, paintbrush

Cover construction.

1. Cut the 2x6" board into four square-cornered pieces: 2 22"-long ones and 2 19"-long ones.

2. Assemble the 22" square box-like frame by sealing/securing the four corners with the silicone window/door water-proofing caulk and 3" screws.

3. On what will be the lower-end of the bottom side, use the file to make at least three half-moon groves for moisture drainage.

4. Paint both the inside and outside of the wooden frame. Let dry.

5. Place the acrylic plexiglass flush over the frame.

6. Mark on the plexiglass where the screw holes will go, about 5" apart around the top of the frame.

7. At each mark, drill a hole through the plexiglass (only) wider than the drywall screw.

8. Then, by using a narrow bit, drill holes 1/2" deep into the wood frame dead-center through the plexiglass holes.

9. Remove the plexiglass from the frame, noting how it fits onto the frame.

10. Brush away any plastic or wood shavings from the frame and plexiglass.

11. With the silicone caulk, add a narrow bead lengthwise on each side of the frame's drill holes all around it.

12. Carefully replace the plexiglass atop the frame, aligning it to the original drill holes accordingly.

13. Install the screws to medium tightness, so not to crack the plexiglass. The caulk will flatten and spread between the plexiglass and the frame, sealing it.

14. Add at least one flat L-shaped bracket to each side of the frame flush to its bottom side with the 1" wood screws.

15. Paint the brackets.

Cover installation (the easy way).

1. While using safety precautions, carry the completed cover up to the roof, assuming the roof is a low-pitch and safe to walk on.

2. Center it over the dome skylight, square to square.

3. Attach the dome to the roof through the shingles with the 1-1/2 to 2" wood screws, depending on the thickness of the shingles.

4. Seal the bottom side of the upper end and both sides of the cover with the silicone window/door caulk. Seal the brackets and screws the same way. Leave the bottom side of the lower end unsealed for drainage. It is a storm window.

5. If necessary, touch-up the frame and brackets with paint.

By installing the cover atop the shingles, the wood sheeting beneath the shingles is also protected from any moisture damage. This placement also elevates the cover over the dome for adequate air space.

This cover will assume the formation of almost all the condensation that would otherwise occur within the dome, none of which will make it through the dome into the house nor beneath the shingles. It will also protect the dome from hail, fallen tree branches, and other damages. To learn more about skylight types and their maintenance, see these sites.

Skylights - A Homemade Shallow Box-Like Acrylic Condensation Cover for Dome Installations
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Special Price!!! Hitachi CM4SB2 11.6 Amp 4-Inch Dry-Cut Masonry Circular Saw

Hitachi CM4SB2 11.6 Amp 4-Inch Dry-Cut Masonry Circular Saw
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Hitachi CM4SB2 11.6 Amp 4-Inch Dry-Cut Masonry Circular Saw

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Hitachi CM4SB2 11.6 Amp 4-Inch Dry-Cut Masonry Circular Saw Feature

  • Dry-cut masonry circular saw with powerful 11.6 Amp motor ideal for cutting through toughest materials
  • Short base-edge-to-blade distance for easier cutting in tight spaces
  • Specially sealed armature coil; metal-seated ball bearing design
  • Includes 4-inch continuous-rim diamond blade for high-performance dry cutting
  • Measures 8-1/8 inches long; weighs 6-1/5 pounds; 5-year limited warranty


Hitachi CM4SB2 11.6 Amp 4-Inch Dry-Cut Masonry Circular Saw Overview

Includes 4-in 11.6 Amp Dry Cut Masonry Saw - CM4SB2, 4-in Continuous Rim Diamond Blade - 728726, Wrench - 941057, 10mm Box Wrench - 940543, 20mm Flange - 956879

Hitachi CM4SB2 11.6 Amp 4-Inch Dry-Cut Masonry Circular Saw Specifications

The Hitachi Dry-Cut Masonry Circular Saw features a powerful 11.6 Amp motor with a maximum 2,090 watt output to produce a no-load speed of 11,500 RPM for greater cutting efficiency. This saw is ideal for cutting through the toughest materials such as tile, marble, granite, concrete, and brick. The saw's design is specifically suited for dry cutting applications and also helps minimize the tool's vibrations and noise. The specially sealed armature coil is protected from dust and debris. The metal-seated ball bearing design increases durability by warding off potential motor damage caused by high temperatures and vibration. The 1-touch lever quickly adjusts the saw's cutting depth up to 1-3/8 inches, the short, 1-7/64-inch base-edge-to-blade distance allows for easier cutting in tight spaces.

This saw is built with a dust-sealed switch and has a D-shape handle with patented elastomer soft grip to absorb vibration, reduce slippage, and provide greater comfort. This compact, lightweight saw measures 8-1/8 inches in length and weighs only 6-1/5 pounds for easy maneuverability and less user fatigue. The saw accepts wheels with 7/8-inch arbors and maximum diameters of 4-3/8 inches. The saw comes with a premium 4-inch continuous-rim diamond blade designed for high-performance dry cutting, plus a wrench, a 10-millimeter box wrench, a 20-millimeter flange, and a 7/8-inch flange. This Hitachi saw is backed by a 5-year limited warranty extended to the original purchaser.

What's in the Box
Dry-cut circular saw, 4-inch continuous-rim blade, wrench, 10-millimeter box wrench, 20-millimeter flange, and 7/8-inch flange.

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Hitachi CM4SB2 11.6 Amp 4-Inch Dry-Cut Masonry Circular Saw

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Makita 5007F 7-1/4-Inch Circular Saw

Special Price!!! Makita 5007F 7-1/4-Inch Circular Saw

Makita 5007F 7-1/4-Inch Circular Saw
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Makita 5007F 7-1/4-Inch Circular Saw

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Makita 5007F 7-1/4-Inch Circular Saw Feature

  • Powerful 15.0-AMP motor delivers 5,800 RPM for proven performance and jobsite durability
  • Lower guard design improves performance when making bevel and narrow cuts
  • Large cutting capacity (2-3/8-Inch at 90-Degree, 1-3/4-Inch at 45-Degree)
  • Two built-in L.E.D. lights illuminate the line of cut for increased accuracy
  • Heavy gauge aluminum wraparound base engineered for improved durability and straighter cuts


Makita 5007F 7-1/4-Inch Circular Saw Overview

Makita listened to the pro-user and engineered the 5007F 7-1/4-Inch Circular Saw with user-friendly features combined with power, weight, balance, and job-site durability. Makita-built motor engineered for versatile power



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How to Install Hardwood Flooring

One of the biggest investments that most people make is the purchase of a house. This is a one-time investment that defines a person's life. However, to reap the most from it, it is imperative that a person uses the best amenities to make it convivial. Hardwood flooring could be a considerable choice for people searching for superb performance. The wood flooring has great benefits ranging from an exceptional look to a well-insulated room and then some. To achieve this goal, it is not necessarily that a person hires a professional in bamboo flooring. All that is needed is the basic understanding and a person is set.

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There are certain things that a person has to understand, so as to come up with superb results from hardwood flooring. One of these aspects is that the installation has to be done on a dry, clean, smooth, and level subfloor. Failure to consider this aspect leads to regrets. It is highly advised for the installer to spend a considerable amount of time preparing the subfloor. Dry it up and ensure that there are no features that make it rough. Ensuring a level floor guarantees durability after completing the bamboo flooring project. Rotting and breakage is eluded by this prior preparation.

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Second, when resizing the material for wood flooring, it is imperative to use a sharp blade designed for this project. The use of a hand saw is considerable but not as reliable as a power saw. Poorly cutting the wood can have a negative impact on the overall project. In most cases, time, and money can be wasted when replacing the damaged wood. Use a power saw adapted for the project. The choice of the circular saw with 40-tooth blade is advisable. Always make sure that the cut is smooth for the best results in hardwood flooring.

When it comes to fastening, it is highly advised to drill pilot holes on the bamboo or hardwood before proceeding with the nailing. The pilot holes play a vital role in masking the fastening nails when the project is done as well as reducing chances of getting the wood broken in bamboo flooring. Fastening can be done using two methods, blind nailing, and face nailing. Regardless of the choice, take time to ensure that the fastening is done in the correct way. It is further advised to fill the pilot holes after nailing with a wood color similar to that of wood. This will help create a more exceptional appearance.

Lastly, before commencing with the project, it is highly advised for a person to have all the materials needed in hardwood flooring. Frustrations become imminent when a person is in a hurry to install the floors. This leads to time wastage when searching for the right tools or damages because of using the wrong tools. Always start by seeking recommendations from experts on matters relating to bamboo flooring. Have all the tools ready before proceeding with the installation. The inevitable tools include the power saw, nails, hammer, and the right wood.

How to Install Hardwood Flooring
4 Circular Saw

Special Price!!! DEWALT DW368K Heavy-Duty 7-1/4-Inch Lightweight Circular Saw Kit

DEWALT DW368K Heavy-Duty 7-1/4-Inch Lightweight Circular Saw Kit
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DEWALT DW368K Heavy-Duty 7-1/4-Inch Lightweight Circular Saw Kit

>> Click here to update Cheapest prices for DEWALT DW368K Heavy-Duty 7-1/4-Inch Lightweight Circular Saw Kit <<

DEWALT DW368K Heavy-Duty 7-1/4-Inch Lightweight Circular Saw Kit Feature

  • 15 Amp 2,200 MWO motor
  • 56-degree beveling capacity with stops at 45- and 22.5-degrees for aggressive bevel cuts
  • Clear line of sight aids in blade visibility from any angle
  • Weighs 9-1/2 pounds
  • Included with saw: carbide-tipped blade, blade wrench, and heavy-duty kit box


DEWALT DW368K Heavy-Duty 7-1/4-Inch Lightweight Circular Saw Kit Overview

The DEWALT 7-1/4-Inch Lightweight Circular Saw Kit features a versatile, powerful, and easy-to-maneuver saw that makes quick work of tough applications. An ideal addition to your tool arsenal, this kit also includes a carbide-tipped blade, a blade wrench, and a kit box for easy transport. At the heart of this DEWALT kit is a dependable circular saw with a tough 15 amp motor, great cut-line visibility, a smart-guard design ideal for bevel cuts, and a 56-degree bevel capacity for all your workpiece needs.

callout box top
7-1/4-Inch Lightweight Circular Saw Kit
At a Glance:
  • Powerful 15 amp, 2,200 MWO motor

  • Lightweight at just 9.5 pounds for comfortable, easy handling

  • Improved blade visibility

  • Low guard design ideal for bevel cuts and cutting shims

  • Three-year limited warranty, one-year free service, and 90-day money-back guarantee
callout box bottom
DEWALT 7-1/4-Inch Lightweight Circular Saw Kit

The circular saw has a 15 amp motor and comes with a durable kit box. View larger.
Powerful Motor Paired with a Lightweight Design
A DEWALT circular saw kit is a versatile tool, designed for easy transport from home to the shop, or to the jobsite. Weighing just 9.5 pounds, this lightweight, easy-to-handle tool is designed to reduce user fatigue and increase productivity.

This lightweight DEWALT design doesn't compromise its power or accuracy. The 15 amp, 2,200 MWO motor is powerful enough to handle the toughest applications. With a no-load speed of 5,800 rpm, this saw rips everything from pine to pressure treated lumber to composite decking.

Big Beveling Capacity and Convenient Stops
For maximum versatility, this lightweight circular saw's 56-degree bevel capacity allows for aggressive bevel cuts. Featuring ball detents at 45 degrees and 22.5 degrees, the saw makes the most commonly used angles easy to find, saving you time.

The saw delivers cut depths up to 2-3/8 inches at 90 degrees and 1-3/4 inches at 45 degrees for use in a wide variety of applications.

Low Guard and Clear Line of Sight for Precision
A precise, lightweight, and easy-to-handle saw goes a long way toward producing accurate results. Blade visibility is another key component to achieving accurate cuts. That's why DEWALT has added a unique, clear line of sight design that offers excellent blade visibility from any angle. In addition, its low guard design offers improved performance when making aggressive bevel cuts and cutting shims.

Durable Construction with Magnesium Shoe
The dependable motor and durable gear case stand up to long, hard use and are only part of what make this DEWALT saw so tough. It also features a magnesium shoe that's designed for increased durability.

This 7-1/4-inch lightweight circular saw kit also comes with a DEWALT warranty package that includes a three-year limited warranty, a one-year free service contract, and a 90-day money-back guarantee.

What's in the Box
DW368K DEWALT 7-1/4-Inch Lightweight Circular Saw, carbide-tipped blade, blade wrench, and kit box.






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DIY Tiki Bar

Building your own tiki bar can be a rewarding project. If you are a do-it-your-self type person then this project might excite you. A "day tiki bar" can be constructed in just a week, with the proper instructions and tools. I consider a set of plans as the best tool you can have, especially if this might be your first big project. Ok let's get started with a list of things you will need to build your backyard paradise.

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Tools you will need- Here is an alphabetical list of tools you will need. You will need a chalk line, circular saw, clamps, cordless drill, hammer, jigsaw, speed square, staple gun, table saw, tape measure, wood chisel, and miscellaneous items. These tools are essential for a DIY tiki bar project. Of course if you have power tools you will speed up the process.

4 Circular Saw

Material for your project- Here is an abbreviated list of what I used to build my own 4 x 8 foot tiki bar. This will give you an idea of what it will take to build this project.

Pressure treated lumber for any surface touching the ground.
2" x 3" x 8' spruce lumber for the frame of the tiki bar.
3 sheets of oak plywood in 4' x 8' x ¾"
Cedar logs (white cedar) to support your roof structure. They should be 4" x 6' round logs.
Approximately 10 pounds of 10 penny nails while be needed.
Hardware for mounting bar top; angle brackets, screws, and liquid nails.
Two gallons of marine varnish to seal your bar and prevent water damage.

Material for roof structure- This will give you an idea of what you will need to build the roof and palm thatching required.

Cedar poles needed to build roof will consist of; 3- 3 ½" x 9' cedar poles, 10- 3 ½" x 8' cedar poles, and 12- 2" x 12" cedar poles.

Thatching made from palm fronds, approximately 60' x 4' roll of thatching. You can buy the palm fronds but the only thing I found is that it takes longer to thatch the roof. I like easy myself, but it is totally up to the individual.

Miscellaneous nails and staples.

Places to purchase materials- Most of the materials can be purchased from your local home supply store and the items like the cedar poles can be purchased from a saw mill or ordered online. Most of the palm fronds and thatching are also available online.

You need a guide- Unless you are a super carpenter; you need to purchase a set of plans. It is so much easier to follow step by step instructions along with pictures to make sure you are building your DIY tiki bar correctly. Let's face it with the price of lumber and materials; you do not want to make mistakes. You will definitely thank me if you purchase a complete guide showing you how to build your outdoor bar.
I built my DIY tiki bar because I enjoy the islands so much that I wanted to bring that atmosphere home with me. Great times and fun can be had around your own tiki bar.

DIY Tiki Bar
4 Circular Saw

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Bench Dog 10-019 ProCut Portable Circular Saw Crosscut Guide for All 8-1/4-Inch and Smaller Circular Saws

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Bench Dog 10-019 ProCut Portable Circular Saw Crosscut Guide for All 8-1/4-Inch and Smaller Circular Saws
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Bench Dog 10-019 ProCut Portable Circular Saw Crosscut Guide for All 8-1/4-Inch and Smaller Circular Saws

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Bench Dog 10-019 ProCut Portable Circular Saw Crosscut Guide for All 8-1/4-Inch and Smaller Circular Saws Overview

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